If giving the correct
living conditions Rhinoceros Iguanas are very hardy and long lived
animals. In this article I will explain how I maintain my Rhino Iguanas.
No doubt my methods will be different to other keepers, but my methods are
successful in maintaining healthy animals.
Heating
The daytime ambient
temperature of 30degC is measured and controlled by the dimming
thermostat's sensor at the centre of the vivarium, therefore the heater
bulbs, positioned at one end, provide a focused hotspot of about 40 to 43
degC, and hence a good temperature gradient across the vivarium is
produced. Under the heater bulbs (3x100 watt) I have a raised shelf for
the iguanas to bask on. This shelf in the adult’s vivarium is
approximately 500mm away from the heater bulbs. These heater bulbs are
set on a timer to switch on in the morning, off at night - settings depend
on the season.
Nighttimes’ temperatures are controlled by a 500 watt ceramic heater, with
a built in thermostat, set to 21 degC. The minimum ambient temperature
should be 18 degC, hence by placing the heater at one end it provides a
temperature gradient across the vivarium. The ceramic heater is active 24
hrs a day, therefore when the heater bulbs switch off the night time
heater automatically switches on. It also acts as back up should the
bulbs fail.
Humidity
Humidity should be dry,
about 20%. I never spray the vivarium or attempt to increase the
humidity. I very rarely spray the Iguanas and only to clean them or
moisten their skin, but that is it.
Lighting
It is very important
these Iguanas receive good levels of UV. In warmer parts of the world
keepers have these Iguanas in outdoor pens, so they receive direct
sunlight, unfortunately here in the UK the climate is not suitable for
this. Therefore the use of good quality UV bulbs is essential. NOTE:
These tubes’ UV outputs diminish over time and are to be replaced every 6
months.
UV (and light) is
provided by two UV tubes. One tube is positioned horizontally along the
roof and one vertically up the side (front corner) at the heating end.
These tubes set on timers and switch on 30 minutes after the heater bulbs
in the morning and off 30 minutes before the heater bulbs at night.
Food
Adult Iguanas are fed 3
to 4 times a week, youngsters should be every day. My adult pair goes
through 3 bags of spring greens, 2 bags of curly kale and 2 bags of grapes
in one week, which works out at less than £10 from a supermarket. In
addition to this standard vegetable mix I also add other items; green
beans, mange tout, dandelion leaves, apples, pears etc. Once a week I
dust their food with a calcium/mineral powder.
Rhino Iguanas are more
than capable of surviving on a vegetarian diet, but unlike their green
cousins, these Iguanas are not strict vegetarians. They also relish
defrosted mice or baby rats as treats, but only two/three each a week
maximum. NOTE: Animal protein should make up a maximum of 5% of a Rhino
Iguana’s food intake; the rest should be fruit and vegetables.
Water
For younger iguanas it is
best to include a shallow dish of fresh water daily. Small Iguanas
dehydrate quicker than the larger adults. For well fed, healthy adults it
is questionable whether they actually use a water bowl. I certainly have
never seen my adult iguanas drink from their water bowl; therefore can
only conclude my Rhino Iguanas obtain all their fluids from the food. My
advice is to supply water and monitor you iguana's drinking habits - my
adult pair eats a lot of grapes which are high in fluid content which
maybe the reason for the lack of drinking....I would be interested to hear
whether other keepers see their adults regularly taking a drink.
Vivarium Size
For a pair of hatchlings
a smaller vivarium 1.2x0.6x0.6m is adequate, and increase the vivarium
size accordingly as they grow.
For an adult pair (3 or 4
years upwards) which are about 3/4 full size, I would suggest a minimum
vivarium size of 2.5x1x1m, this should include shelves/platforms for them
to climb onto etc. The addition of shelves and platforms increases the
amount of useable floor area - which is important for these ground
dwellers. You will see other keepers advise setups of 3x3m, but this has
come from breeders in the southern USA who are able to keep them in
outdoor pens. However in the UK we have to keep them indoors and a 3x3m
vivarium may not be a realistic option. But remember the more space you
can provide these large lizards the better, an adult male Iguana which is
about the size of a small Jack Russell dog. It is also worth considering
a second vivarium, should you need to separate the adults.
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